The Mattal (Ear Chain) Designs in Gold serve a brilliant dual purpose: they distribute the weight of massive earrings and elevate the wearer’s entire look, adding a layer of cascading grandeur that beautifully frames the face. For brides and women wearing opulent festive jewelry, the Mattal is the finishing touch that ensures comfort, security, and spectacular style.
Read more: Mango Mala (Manga Malai)
1. The Dual Purpose: Function Meets Grandeur
The essentiality of the Mattal lies in its ability to solve the fundamental problem of wearing heavy, multi-layered earrings.
A. Protecting the Ear Lobe (The Practical Need)
Heavy earrings, especially those crafted in high-purity 22K gold, can exert significant downward pressure, stretching the earlobe piercing over time. The Mattal takes the majority of the weight, transferring the load to the hair (where it is securely hooked), effectively preventing piercing damage and ensuring comfortable wear for hours.
B. Aesthetic Elevation (The Styling Accent)
The sweeping curve of the gold chain from the ear to the hair adds incredible aesthetic appeal. It complements the symmetry of the earrings, highlights the jewelry worn on the neck, and creates a mesmerizing, intricate frame around the face, often seen in classic bridal photos.
C. Completing the Traditional Look
In South Indian bridal traditions, particularly with Temple or bridal Antique jewelry, the Mattal is considered a crucial element. A heavy Jhumka is simply incomplete without its supporting chain, which adds complexity and regal volume.
2. The Anatomy of the Mattal: Structure and Connection
A standard Mattal is characterized by its simple yet ingenious engineering:
A. The Hook (The Anchor)
The top end of the Mattal features a hook or a clip that is securely fastened into the hair, either directly into the bun (juda) or braided into the hair itself, acting as the anchor point for the weight.
B. The Earring Connector
The bottom end features a ring or a hook that connects to the main stud or the hoop of the earring. This connection point ensures the weight is immediately transferred from the lobe to the chain.
C. The Chains (The Support)
The length of the Mattal consists of one or more layered gold chains. These are designed to drape beautifully in a slight curve behind the ear and along the side of the head.
3. Traditional and Modern Mattal (Ear Chain) Designs in Gold
The designs range from simple, functional support chains to elaborate bridal pieces studded with precious stones.
A. The Simple Multi-Strand Chain
The classic design features two to four thin, uniform gold chains linked together. The simplicity of the chain pattern ensures that the focus remains entirely on the primary earrings.
- Usage: Versatile for daily wear Jhumkas or simple festive occasions.
B. Pearl and Gold Fusion Mattal
This is a highly popular design, especially for bridal wear. The gold chains are interspersed or replaced entirely with rows of delicate pearls, accented by small gold spacers or motifs.
- Aesthetic: Adds softness, elegance, and volume that complements diamond or Kundan-studded earrings.
C. Temple Motif and Nakshi Mattal
These intricate designs draw heavily from temple jewelry. The chain links are replaced by small, repetitive, ornate gold plates featuring Nakshi work (carving) of deities or motifs like the peacock.
- Accent: The chain may feature a dramatic Kirtimukha (gargoyle face) motif near the connecting hook for an auspicious, traditional look.
D. Layered and AD/CZ Stone Mattal
For maximum wedding grandeur, Mattals are made with five or more chains that are often fully pave-set with high-quality AD (American Diamond) or colored CZ stones (rubies/emeralds).
- Look: Creates a shimmering “waterfall” effect that is perfect for receptions and grand ceremonies.
4. Wearing and Placement Guide: Mastering the Art
Correctly placing the Mattal is essential for both comfort and aesthetics.
A. Correct Hooking
The main hook must be anchored securely into the hair (usually hidden beneath the bulk of the hairstyle or the gajra). The chain should be tight enough to lift the earring slightly, relieving pressure from the lobe, but loose enough to create a natural, graceful curve.
B. Number of Layers
The weight of the earring should dictate the support. A light Jhumka requires 1 to 2 strands, while a heavy bridal Jhimki (15+ grams) requires a multi-layered Mattal (4 to 5 strands) for effective weight distribution.
C. Pairing with Hair Styles
The Mattal looks best with traditional up-dos (buns/braids) where the chain can be easily secured and the hair’s volume provides the counter-balance to the earring’s weight.
5. Purity and Longevity
Since the Mattal is a supporting piece, it must be highly durable.
- Purity Choice: Traditional designs are often 22K, but for multi-strand or fine wirework Mattals, 18K gold offers superior strength to prevent the fine chains from snapping or stretching under tension.
- Safety Check: Always ensure the hooks that attach to the earring and the hair are smooth and rounded to prevent irritation to the delicate skin behind the ear.
Conclusion
The Mattal (Ear Chain) Designs in Gold are far more than beautiful accessories; they are a critical element of jewelry engineering that ensures the comfortable and safe wear of heavy earrings. By choosing a design that complements your primary earrings—whether a traditional Temple style or a modern layered piece—you complete the majestic Indian look with grace, security, and unparalleled sophistication.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is the Mattal only for brides, or can it be worn on other occasions?
While the heaviest, most ornate Mattals are reserved for brides, simple multi-strand or single pearl chain Mattals are commonly worn by women for major festivals, family weddings, and religious ceremonies where they wear large, festive earrings.
Does the Mattal help prevent the earring from being lost?
Yes. The Mattal acts as a secondary secure anchor connecting the earring to the hair. If the main ear post were to loosen or the backing were to fall off, the Mattal prevents the earring from being lost, providing an essential layer of security.
How do I choose the correct length for a Mattal?
The standard length allows for a graceful curve from the earring to the top of the ear/hairline. When worn, the chain should gently curve but not hang loosely or pull the earlobe sharply upward.
Can I attach a Mattal if my earring is a simple stud?
The Mattal requires a hoop, ring, or a strong stud base to connect. If the stud is solid, a small loop can be soldered onto the back or bottom of the stud base to allow the Mattal to be attached securely.
Which purity of gold is better for the Mattal chains?
While 22K is traditional, 18K gold is structurally better for Mattal chains. Its increased hardness prevents the fine chain links from stretching or snapping under the constant tension of supporting a heavy earring.
